Pensione Rialto ★★★

Eleven rooms over a bakery, two bridges from the fish market and audibly so.

The house has been in the same family since the sixties and looks it, in the good sense: terrazzo floors worn smooth at the doorways, shutters that need a shoulder, and a breakfast room that was clearly once someone's front parlour. Rooms facing the calle are quieter than the ones over the water, which is the opposite of what guests expect.

Check in from 14:00, out by 10:30. The market starts at half past six and does not apologise for it.