Haus am Waldrand ★★★

Fourteen rooms where the road stops and the forest starts, ten minutes above the city.

Built as a forester's house and extended twice without ever losing the plot: larch outside, lime plaster inside, and a tiled stove in the hall that is lit from October. Half the rooms look down the valley and half look into the trees; the tree side sleeps better. Boots dry in a heated room by the door, which tells you what people come for.

Check in from 14:00, out by 10:00. Half board on request. The last bus down leaves at 22:40.