The Weaver's House ★★★★

A tenement corner turned twenty-two rooms, with the Grassmarket below and the castle behind.

The conversion kept the stair, the cornices and most of the arguments about both. What is new is quiet: secondary glazing throughout, which matters on a street that stays awake, and a lift that finally makes the top floor worth asking for. The ground floor is a bar that locals use, not a lobby pretending to be one.

Check in from 15:00. Breakfast until 10:30, later on Sundays. Two rooms take dogs.