Hotel Kranich ★★★★

Nineteen rooms around a courtyard, two minutes from the river.

Rooms are plain in the good sense: good linen, blackout that works, and a desk you can actually use. The courtyard is the point — chestnut in the middle, tables under it from May, and quiet enough that the front rooms are the ones to avoid rather than request. Breakfast is one long table and runs late by design.

Check in from 15:00. Breakfast until 11:00. Bicycles in the passage, no charge.